Enamel Escapes the Egg
Nova Bronstein Wednesday, April 13, 2011 at 9:02AM 
Kristi Sword - Squiggle Tear Post Enamel EarringsWhen most people think of enamel jewelry and objects they think of a few specific associations: Faberge eggs, cloisonne and cheap charms in bright, pure colors beloved in the 1980's. This framing places enamel in one of three categories, controlled and regal, bright and garish, or simple and cheap.
Thank goodness these perceptions are wrong! Today's enamelists are making elegant and contemporary work which break down these walls.
Kristi Sword - Circle Enamel Signet Ring
Kristi Sword - Large Pierced Squiggle Enamel Necklace Enamel has an extremely rich history tracing all the way back to the 5th century A.D. with Celtic fibula, inlayed with enamel, which held warrior's woolen cloaks closed. With the expanse of both the technique and understanding of fusing glass to metal - this is what is meant by vitreous enamel, which involves 1250-1500 degree heat- came the creation of Faberge and their covet-worthy and infamous eggs.
Enter Kristi Sword who works with a respect for enameled jewelry’s history while keeping a contemporary eye. Kristi is no non-sense and all non-sense at the same time. Completely lacking in pretense, her work is a persistent exploration of materials without regard for convention, grounded in meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail. She works in bold strokes, like Michelangelo laying down the initial cartoon sketch for one of his masterpieces, she doesn't get persnickety. In fact one might accurately describe her initial process as down right impatient. No sifting or building up of layers here the way transparent enamels are traditionally worked. Instead, she creates a frame of metal, usually of sterling silver, laying down a doodle-like composition of squiggles or circles from ball chain, then heaping a big pile of powdered enamel on top. Once fired, the down-facing side gets ground down, becoming the front side of the piece, exposing an abstract composition lusciously thick and rounded in back. The ground down glass becomes a buttery soft surface, feeling like beach-washed glass. The end result, as seen here, is a wearable milky gem.
Kristi Sword - Chandelier Squiggle Enamel Earrings
Kristi's explorations in jewelry move in other interesting directions as well. Some of her recent explorations have pivoted around 1mm ball chain in combination with the plastic backing usually utilized for cross-stitch. Consistently finding new ways to play, often using humble materials which, through her skillful hands become essential and extremely wearable bijoux works of jewelry. This collection of enamel jewelry, awash in soft tones of milky white and pale green, a palette of naturally colored eggs, serves as evidence of both exploration and craftsmanship that can be worn everyday.
Interested in becoming a jewelry designer? The Sheffield Jewelry Design: Beading & Wire-Working Course teaches everything you need to know to create your own collection of jewelry, from teaching you both foundational and advanced techniques for making jewelry, to pricing, marketing and launching your jewelry line.
Reader Comments (12)
Without your write up, I wouldn't have known these are enamel jewelry.
They do indeed look like glass. The Circle Enamel Signet Ring and Chandelier Squiggle Enamel Earrings looks pretty.
The soft blue, green tone give a cool, elegant look.
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The soft blue, green tone give a cool, elegant look.
I am very interested in jewelry design. I really like your beautifully made and designed jewelry.
Keep going designer :)
Sincerely,
Jean Pierre
You are very good in jewelry design. Keep up the good work.
Its sweet as jewelry allways are. Greetings, Patrick