Understanding Wire Gauges in Jewelry Making

 Bracelet by Maizhka.Many students here at the Sheffield Jewelry Design course ask about when to use what wire for their projects. Hopefully these tips will keep you from buying several spools of wire that are not right for your project. Although learning by trial and error is the best way to learn, even if you burn a few bucks in the process. Eventually you will find a use for that spool of wire that turned out to be unusable. The beautiful bracelet above is by Marizhka.

When purchasing wire you not only have to choose the right gauge, which is the thickness of the wire, but you also have to be aware of the temper / hardness of the wire. The hardness refers to the malleability or stiffness of the wire, referred to as dead soft (easy to bend), half hard (malleable), or full hard (extremely stiff wire). The most common gauges used in jewelry making range between 12 gauge ( very thick ) and 30 gauge (very thin). The lower the gauge number the thicker the wire.

Pendant by Urban EclecticDead-soft, is the most malleable, often used when a design calls for making several bends and loops in a heavy gauge like this pendant by Urban Eclectic. Wire becomes harder as it is manipulated, so using dead-soft wire will enable you to manipulate it longer before it becomes too brittle to work with. Overworked wire will break. Keep in mind, while dead soft wire is easiest to manipulate, it does not hold its shape well.

Rings by Neroli Handmade

Half-hard wire has been hardened but is still malleable. Normally used when working with sterling silver or gold filled wire. It will retain its shape better than dead soft but is not as easy to manipulate. For heavy 12, 14 or 16 gauge wires you will need tools to shape your design; they will be too difficult to shape and bend with just your hands. These gauges are good for stiff bracelet frames and rings. These wire wrapped rings by Neroli Handmade are a heavy a gauge wire embellished with a thinner gauge wrapping wire .

Size 18, 19, and 20 gauge wires are used for creating ear wires, clasps, connecting large beads or to frame the shape of your earring. 19 gauge wire is ideal for making ear wires but also the most difficult size to find. Many people use 20 gauge to create ear wires. You can flatten the ear wire where it sits in the ear if 20 gauge feels too thick for comfort.

Earrings by Calico JunEarrings by Sara HickeyFor wire wrapping most beads a 22 gauge wire is widely used. Crystals and beads fit on it too. The 24 and 26 gauge wires are good for semi precious stones that have smaller holes in them, such as pearls. These wire wrapped earrings by Calico Juno and Sarah Hickey are a great combination of heavy gauge frames wrapped with semi precious stones on a smaller gauge wire. A 28 or 30 gauge wire is extremely fine and used for fine knitting or crocheting with wire; it is not easy to work with. 

Rings by Haley M.It's ideal to practice shaping your design with craft wire before creating it with precious metal wire. Craft wires are sold by the spool made of a base such as copper, available in many colors. Precious metal wires are sold by the inch or the foot. These wire wrapped rings by Haley M. are made with 20 gauge solid nickel wire, so it will stay a silver color and not wear down to show the copper underneath if overworked or over worn. 

 Mobile by My Wire ArtIf this has not been too much information to take in all at once, you may like to know that wire also comes in a variety of shapes such as round, half round, square and twisted. You can make many types of crafts with it such as this amazing mobile created by My Wire Art.

Sheffield School began as an Interior Design school in 1985, and then expanded our course offerings to train people in other design-related fields, including Feng Shui, Wedding and Event Planning, and Jewelry Design. With thousands of active students and more than 50,000 graduates, Sheffield has trained more design professionals than any school in the world.

Request a free Sheffield School catalog describing our distance education courses.

Subscribe to the Sheffield Designer newsletter.

Meet Our Sheffield School Jewelry Instructors

Nova's Jewelry made it to the cover of Elle Magazine.

Nova's Picot Edge Earring

Our Pioneer instructor and student advisor, Nova Bronstein, has shaped the Sheffield course since its inception. Nova is originally from the San Francisco Bay area on the West Coast. She now resides in Brooklyn, NY and recently became a new mom. Her artistic endeavors were nurtured and supported from an early age by parents who were both artists. Following her passion she shifted to New York to get her  B.F.A in Metalsmithing from State University of New York at New Paltz. Additionally, Nova studied at The Crucible in Oakland, CA and Fashion, Textile, and Knitwear Design at Academy of Art in San Francisco. In addition to sharing her knowledge with budding jewelry designers at Sheffield she has taught at the Museum of Art and Design in NYC, The Shelbourne Craft Center in Shelbourne, VT and out of her Brooklyn, NY studio. Nova's work can be viewed at www.novacolette.com.

Earrings by Haley M.

Haley Mindes first began her fascination with jewelry making when she learned how to macrame bracelets and anklets during summer camp. Originally from New York, Haley received a B.F.A from Hartford Art School in CT. After graduation Haley moved to back to NY where she worked as a graphic designer by day, taking metalsmithing classes in the evening at New York institutions like F.I.T, School of Visual Arts and the 92nd St. Y. After learning enough techniques to create work on her own from her apartment, Haley began building a small business by selling her jewelry to boutiques across the country. To this day the inspiration to incorporate macrame into her work, along with other mediums such as, stones, resin and leather combined with metals is still going strong. Currently Haley is a student advisor at Sheffield helping students with whatever questions they have throughout the course. Her work can be viewed at www.haleym.com.

Bracelet by Kari Auerbach

Kari Auerbach, first discovered her love for jewelry making by creating pieces out of empty small perfume glass sample bottles. She filled them with beads and figured out how to attach them to earrings and chains and people started buying them up. This inspired her to take a few classes at F.I.T and Parsons School of Design. Kari honed her skills with on the job training working for other jewelry designers. With a vast array of work experience under her belt from working as a model maker, jewelry designer for a cruiseline, creating metal logo tags to even designing tiara's, she eventually began selling her own designs to boutiques. Along with a couple of friends Kari opened a women's artist co-op shop on 9th St. in downtown NY, called Mayhem. There she sold her edgy romantic designs referred to as the Hells Cherub collection. Now she keeps busy nurturing the talent of budding Sheffield designers, as well as her son here in New York City.

Jewelry by Dori Eisenhauer

Dori Eisenhauer started her career as an actress and took up her second career, jewelry design, when she realized it was either purchase raw materials and make your own accessories or do without them on a struggling actress budget. Dori studied at Pratt Fine Arts Center in Seattle, WA.  Soon after she moved to New York City and continued her jewelry design studies at the 92nd Street Y, as well as, under Donna Distefano, former resident goldsmith at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Dori is currently happily living in Brooklyn, NY with her dog, Tribble, and enjoying sharing her knowledge with Sheffield students on how to grow your jewelry design addiction into a small business. Dori still divides her time between her love of acting and jewelry design, her work can be viewed at www.ikedesignsjewelry.com.

 

Serena Van Rensselaer's intrigue with jewelry began as a young girl, when she used to visit her grandmother and her namesake, Serena. The elder Serena was an extremely talented painter who loved all forms of art. But it was her collection of jewelry that captivated Serena, for she had pieces from around the world, and each piece had a story behind it.

Serena grew up in New Jersey, and went on to study Art History and Cultural Anthropology, before re-visiting her childhood passion of jewelry design in San Miguel D’Allende, Mexico. It was there that she took her first metal class, and fell in love with thecreative process. Serena worked, studied and traveled to Europe and the Caribbean, honing her skills as a metal smith.

Serena lived for years in St.Thomas & St. John where she co-owned a gallery. She loved living by the ocean, and found the islands incredibly inspiring. In 1999, she moved to New York City, and settled in the East Village. She thrived on the creative energy in NYC, and opened a studio.

In 2007, she had a baby boy; Aziz Skyler who is her greatest joy and inspiration. She balances her time, creating new jewelry collections, raising her son and teaching NYIAD Jewelry students. 

 Sheffield School began as an Interior Design school in 1985, and then expanded our course offerings to train people in other design-related fields, including Feng Shui, Wedding and Event Planning, and Jewelry Design. With thousands of active students and more than 50,000 graduates, Sheffield has trained more design professionals than any school in the world.

Request a free Sheffield School catalog describing our distance education courses.

Subscribe to the Sheffield Designer newsletter.

Artisan Wedding Jewelry

Gold knot rings by Jessica Poole.

Marriage is about the unique commitment that two individuals make to each other. Whether it is with something old or something new, there are many artists out there hoping to help you create a one-of-a-kind, ageless, and personal piece of jewelry that will endure the ever-changing nature of fashion.                                                                                                        

The 18 karat Gold Knot Rings by Jessica Poole are a unique way to tie the knot - an inventive and fashionable variation from the diamond engagement ring. 

Rough diamond stud earrings by Lex Luxe.

The beauty in artisan wedding jewelry is that the pieces usually fall under the category of an extension of regular jewelry, with a sentimental touch. These "not so typical diamond studs" can be worn as everyday jewelry. The 14kt gold studs hold a rough diamond created by Lexluxe. These earrings have been admired in LUCKY magazine, People Style Watch, and Martha Stewart Weddings.

 Heart shape aluminum guitar pick by Nici Laskin.For the musician, a personalized guitar pick will last forever. This guitar pick was hand sawed in the shape of a heart by Nici Laskin. You can have a hole drilled in it and wear it as a necklace or a key chain. It also makes a great gift for groomsmen. You can even give it with a guitar, or guitar lesson, if you have the budget.

Misha of N.Y.These fresh water cultured pearl earrings and necklace are elegantly hand wrapped with gold filled wire by Misha of NY in his signature wire wrapped embedded stone technique.                                                                                                              

Crocheted gold filled jewelry by Yoola.The crocheted cuff bracelet, ring, and necklace by Yoola, are modern and classic at the same time. The cuff is created using a crochet hook and fine gold filled wire.

Of course nothing says forever like a tattooed wedding band...

If you're interested in learning more about jewelry design, we encourage you to explore the Sheffield School, New York, NY. Sheffield began as an Interior Design school in 1985, and then expanded our course offerings to train people in other design-related fields, including Feng Shui, Wedding and Event Planning, and Jewelry Design. With thousands of active students and more than 50,000 graduates, Sheffield has trained more design professionals than any school in the world.

Request a free Sheffield School catalog describing our distance education courses.

Subscribe to the Sheffield Designer newsletter.

Connecting Forged Jewelry - Part 2

Cold connected bangles with copper rivets by Hammerhead Designs

Playing with fire is fun but not everyone can or should be lighting up a torch in their home / studio. This is where cold connections become useful for joining metal. These are exemplary images of how to design great pieces of jewelry with out soldering. The bangles above by Hammer Head Designs are forged and riveted closed with handmade copper rivets. Riveting is not only ideal for connecting together metal, but for other materials that can not be heated with a torch such as wood.

                                                                                                                                  

Wadestone and Glass Works bangles

                                                                   

The bangles above by Wadestone and Glass Works are connected by commercially manufactured miniature nuts and bolts. These tiny screws are not only functional but serve as a decorative focal point. You just need to drill the correct size hole in order to join the forged ends of the bangles together by screwing the nuts and bolts together tightly.

                                                                   

                                                                                                       

Wire-wrapping creates opportunities to not only connect elements but enhance a design when used skillfully. This forged horse shoe necklace, found on Pinterest, is connected to the chain by coils of wire that are not just decorative but functional as well.                                                                                                      

                                                                                                       

Necklace by Sophie Hughes

                                                                                                       

Jump rings are great for joining together metal that has holes or bars to connect to. In order to create the holes you will need a metal hole punch or a drill. I love this necklace by Sophie Hughes. She has forged and rolled decorative metal bars that are connected to a chain. I can only assume there is a bar or hole inside the tubes to connect the chain with jump rings.

Ring found on Erie Basin

The focal point on this forged and oxidized ring by Erie Basin serves as a closure as well. Featuring how a piece comes together by planning your design around a folded tab closure is a great way to join metal without soldering.

                                                                                                 

Forged sterling silver with leather by Donna Veverka

                                                                                                       

This cuff by Donna Veverka really opened my eyes to creative new ways of forging and connecting without soldering. The bars are made from heavy gauge round wires that are forged flat in the center. The round wire on the ends are then looped to wrap around leather, framing and holding the forged bars in place. Absolutely brilliant!

If you're interested in learning more about jewelry design, we encourage you to explore the Sheffield School, New York, NY. Sheffield began as an Interior Design school in 1985, and then expanded our course offerings to train people in other design-related fields, including Feng Shui, Wedding and Event Planning, and Jewelry Design. With thousands of active students and more than 50,000 graduates, Sheffield has trained more design professionals than any school in the world.

Request a free Sheffield School catalog describing our distance education courses.

Subscribe to the Sheffield Designer newsletter.

Forging Metal Jewelry - Part One

Earrings by etsy shop Decadence2Jewelry

Many people do not know what the term forging means when it comes to making jewelry. Once shown what forged jewelry looks like, they realize they actually do know what forged jewelry is, but did not know that the technique is referred to as forging. The earrings above, by Brenda Braun, are a good forged example made from rounded wire. You can see the round wire where the ear wire is connected by loops; it is then hammered into a textured oval shape and slightly flattened. 

Chasing hammer and steel block from mysticalportal.com

Forging is the process of using a chasing hammer on a steel block (or anvil) to shape, flatten and bend metal in order to create controlled curves within one piece of jewelry. The chasing hammer has a curved face allowing a smooth tapered transition blending from round to flat when striking with the hammer. 

Bracelets by Paige Hamilton Davis

What sets these bangles, by Paige Hamilton Davis, apart from from other bangles is the subtle beauty in the forging. The tapered and curled edges of the clasp, as well as, the graceful transition of the curves shaped in opposite directions are extremely aesthetically pleasing. It may look simple and subtle but it takes incredible control to create these beautifully transitioned curves. 

Earrings by Fail Jewelry

These inverted V earrings, by Fail Jewelry, are made with round gold filled wire and oxidized sterling silver beads. The sterling beads are held in place by forging the bottom of the wire flat to fan it out.

Forged and oxidized bangle by Water Fire Studio

The four oxidized and hammered curves above, created by Water Fire Studio, are connected by dual ball connectors. It requires soldering with a torch to create the dual ball connectors. This bracelet is a great source of inspiration to create linked forged shapes with jump rings for those who are not familiar with how to use a torch. The heavy cuff below, by Jet Flair on Etsy, also looks like the links were soldered but gets me thinking about a half chain and half bangle bracelet I would like to attempt to create without soldering. 

Forged cuff by Jet Flair on etsy.com

In my next blog, Forging & Connecting Jewelry - part two, I will be showing great examples of different ways to connect forged pieces of metal without having to solder with a torch. 

If you're interested in learning more about jewelry design, we encourage you to explore the Sheffield School, New York, NY. Sheffield began as an Interior Design school in 1985, and then expanded our course offerings to train people in other design-related fields, including Feng Shui, Wedding and Event Planning, and Jewelry Design. With thousands of active students and more than 50,000 graduates, Sheffield has trained more design professionals than any school in the world.

Request a free Sheffield School catalog describing our distance education courses.

Subscribe to the Sheffield Designer newsletter.

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